060913 Stanage Popular

Overview - No partner for the day meant returning to Popular right-hand, and getting back to ticking absolutely everything. I.e. after a quick warm-up on the routes I've now done ten times, I started work on all the problems (solo) between the start of Stanage and the Black Hawk area. The new Rockfax Eastern Grit also meant a number of new lines that weren't in the last guide. The descriptions here are the ones I haven't done before, which means I left 14 out.

Mantelpiece Hand traverse (HVS 4c):

Solo - Had to retreat and rethink this one after the first attempt was trying to do it no-footed! By the time the corner is reached, the long can just about still have feet on under the roof, making it an interesting step around the corner and up. The short, however, will find it incredibly pumpy, or simply much harder, as the feet will either be bad smears or not on at all! 5a rather than 4c, but an easy HVS.

Mantelpiece Buttress Area ticks:

Trivial Pursuit VS 4c
Hoaxer's crack HS 4b
Just got Mental Peace and Suzanne to do now before that's all done...

Lefthand of Rugosity Crack Area:

Nichless Climb HS 4b
Nicke Wall Direct 1* HS 4b
Right Wall Route 1* HVD
Recess Wall 1* HVD
Given my opinions on jamming, I'll have to leave Rugosity Crack and partner for lead... Whatever you do, don't try either of these HVDs early on in your career. They are correctly graded as Diffs, but are oddly hard!

In Earnest (1* HVS 5a):

Solo - I couldn't work out how to start Big Chris, so gave up and swung around the arete onto this one. Nicely tricky move to finish off the arete, but still a tad scary for HVS given how far the gear is below you! Deserves the star and 5a.

Green Wall (VS 4c):

Solo - When it says "best avoided when at all damp" in the guide, it probably means it! The movements right at half height are rather devious, but the route as a whole will eat gear... Probably graded correctly.

Chimp's Corner (VS 5a):

Solo - Think this one had HVS in the last guide, but has been rightly downgraded. Probably best to place gear before hauling / half-awkward-laybacking the first section until standing on the top block. Breath a huge sigh of relief and continue to the top. The long walk leftwards to top out is worth it!

Manchester Buttress Area:

Crack and Corner3* S 4b - excellent, you can just see J Putrell on it!
Cool Groove S 4a - good exercise in bridging!
Cakestand S 4b
Manchester United HVS 5b - One move wonder eliminate... pah!
Anatomy VDiff
Sociology S 4a
Physiology VDiff
Couldn't quite get on Lancaster Wall, but by this point I was getting tired...

Two Tier Climb (VS 5a):

Solo - Odd. Easy low section. Hard move to reach the ledge on the upper section. About the right tech grade, and hence about the right route grade, but almost silly to grade that way!

Gargolye Variant (1* HS 4b):

Solo - A nice route, with a good, obvious crux getting around onto the front face. Large cams might help if leading!